TROUBLE SHOOTING MAMMOLUX
680 AND 1360 GEN-1 AND GEN 2-A UNITS
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Jump to Issue Area: |
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Issue |
Recommendation |
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The unit does NOT TURN ON? |
1. Make sure the unit is plugged in and
that main power switch is turned on. |
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2. Check the
continuity on the main power switch (S1) |
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3. Check
continuity on fuses F1, F2, F3, F9 and F10.
Replace fuses as needed. |
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4. Check the
voltage in and out of the main transformer (115 volts in 24-270 Volt out). |
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After turning the main power switch ON the F9 or F10
fuse keeps blowing? |
Replace
the SPS controller. |
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The unit is ON but none of the functions work? |
1. Make sure
the SPS is switched to the RUN position. |
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2. Check the
F12 fuse on the shutter motherboard. |
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Issue |
Recommendation |
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1. Check F5,
F6 fuses. Replace as needed. |
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2. Make sure
the light potentiometer switch is connected to the CPU switchboard. |
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3. Make sure
the SPS is switched to the RUN position. |
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4. Check the
light relay. |
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Only some of the lamps will turn ON? |
1. Check
lamps. |
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2. Check
the ballasts. |
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The lights will not dim? |
1. Check the light potentiometer switch. |
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How do I replace lamps? |
1.
Drive the belt beyond frame 85. You will need the foot
switch to get the belt beyond frame 85. |
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2.
When the cut outs in the belt appear about half way into
the viewing area, cut the power switch off. |
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3.
Remove the internal acrylic panel and replace the lamps
as needed. For detail instructions on changing the lamps see your service
manual. |
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Issue |
Recommendation |
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1. Check
the main BELT alignment. |
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2. Check
that the S2 or S3 safety switches are not
activated. |
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3. Check the F3 fuse. |
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4. Check the F14 fuse on the
Speed Controller. |
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The belt drives from one end to the
other without stopping? |
1.
Check
the S8 and S9 sensors. The LED on
transmitter should always be on. The LED on the receiver should blink on and off every
time the belt reaches a frame position. |
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2.
Check
the cable connections of S8 and S9. |
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3. Check the #2 and #5 inputs on the SPS. |
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4.
Make sure the SERVICE switch is turned off. |
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The belt drives to a certain frame
but it “hunts” UP and DOWN several times before stopping. The LED does
not match the frame number on the belt? |
1. Calibrate the Actual Value Potentiometer
(P1). |
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2. Replace the Actual Value Potentiometer.
(P1) |
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The belt is jammed? (Caution: Do not
remove the drive chain) |
1. This is usually caused by an elastic band
getting caught. |
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2. Locate the affected band and release it by
turning the drums up and down by using only the hand
crank. |
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3. Locate and remove any foreign objects that
may have fallen inside the machine. |
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The belt tension is too loose and the belt rides to one side? |
1. Run the belt one frame at time from one end
to the other several times. The belt
should realign. |
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The chain has been removed and the belt tension was lost? |
1.
Drive
the Belt to frame #42. Remove the
drive chain. Keeping the belt tight on the bottom drum, turn the spring shaft
2 ½ turns counter-clockwise using the hand crank. |
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2. Reattach the drive chain. |
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Mammolux Belt
Calibration Worksheet. |
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Issue |
Recommendation |
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1.
Check
the F12 fuse on the Shutter Mother Board. |
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2.
Check
the X18 and X20 connections. |
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3.
Check
the connections into the Shutter Mother Board. |
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4.
Check
for 24-volts out of the main transformer. |
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The shutters will not drive all the way out? |
Note: On units
with auto calibration software, the shutters will cover about ¾ of the bottom
edge of the film. This is normal due to safety perimeters in the shutter
system design |
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1.
Reset
the shutter opening by inputting a new shutter memory into the 24 x 30
button. |
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2. Check the potentiometer perimeter values
and calibrate the shutters. |
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The shutters make unusual noises when they are driven IN or
OUT? |
Calibrate the shutters:
The calibration of the shutters is absolutely necessary to insure a limitation of the mobile range of the four and to protect them from collision.
1. Press the following keys simultaneously: "C", "6" and "8" simultaneously. This will enter the system into the shutter calibration mode.
2. A flashing "99" appears on the display.
3. The shutters will now move automatically by the calibration program.
At first the reference window 1 will be set in the left upper corner of the viewing area.
Then the reference window 2 will be set in the right lower corner of the viewing area.
After this, all the four shutters will be opened again automatically.
4. The calibration will be finished, when the red LED in key "Funct" stops flashing and the display shows the field number again. Now the calibration of the shutters has been done.
Note: Without calibration the shutter functions are locked and do not work. |
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One of the shutters will not drive? |
1. The drive motor gear is stuck. |
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2.
Release
the gear tension by loosening the shutter motor mounting screws. Manually try turning the motor
housing. Do not put too much force on
the motor; it may bend the worm gear shaft.
If the motor still does not drive, replace it. |
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3. Calibrate the shutters after the motor is
released. |
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The shutter skips when driving IN or OUT? |
1.
On units
with a belt drive shutter system, the shutter carrier rod may need
lubrication |
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2.
On units
with worm gear shutter system, the shutter carrier may be dirty. Look for burrs on the shaft and smoothen
as needed. |
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3. The shutter gear motor may be
stripped. Replace the shutter motor
and then calibrate the shutters. |
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